Nha Trang - Rolling in the Mud and on the Coaster

The train ride to Nha Trang was long (10 hours) and it was after midnight when we finally arrived.  The weather was similar to Hoi An, damp and pretty dreary and because of a recent storm there was incredible surf that was great to see and hear but made swimming dangerous.  We didn’t spend much time on the actual beach but it looked lovely with miles and miles of sandy shoreline.  The wide stone boulevards that lined the beach would not have been out of place in Australia or Hawaii, nor would have the hotels and shops. The roads were the best we have seen in Vietnam and you could definitely tell that money has flowed into this area. 

While we were really impressed with the quality of development and infrastructure we were less impressed to learn that all along the coast many fishing villages have been relocated to make way for the tourists.  Tourists have moved in and much of the local life has been forced out. Many fishing families have lost their way of life, a familiar story throughout the world.  We had to wonder how long it might be before the basket boats that have for so long been a part of Vietnam’s coastal character disappear.   The more we travel the more we see first hand the tremendous impact that tourism and globalization have.  While both can be a huge economic boost providing employment and increasing opportunities for many, there is always a price to be paid.  As we have mentioned before, we can only hope that as global awareness of the importance of the sustainable development of the tourism industry increases people of influence can figure out a way for communities to share the beauty that they have without jeopardizing it or anyone’s way of life in the process.  

We only spent a few days in Nha Trang but during that time we did some pretty fun things.  Rob and I had an interesting experience at the Thap Ba Spa.  Under the cover of tropical plants and drizzly skies and listening to birds and insects all around, we showered in thermal mineral water, soaked in a bathtub full of mud and then in a bath tub full of tea and then each enjoyed a massage.  While bathing in mud is not something we would do on a regular basis it was another first to add to our list! 

Vinpearl Land is a popular amusement park close to Nha Trang that was once pegged as Vietnam’s version of Disneyland.  Disneyland it was not but we were not expecting California in Vietnam.  The park is located on an island and to get there you take a tram across the water.  The process of getting to and from the park is part of the fun.  Along with a fairly decent roller coaster and a number of other standard amusement park rides there was also a fun water park, a cool 4D theater, the best aquarium we have seen in a long time and a huge arcade.  We were almost ready to leave when we stumbled on the arcade.  Our departure was postponed for quite some time while the boys’ ran from machine to machine, adrenaline pumping and in heaven by having free reign to a bunch of games they seldom get to play.  The $8.00 admission price to enter the park included everything.  The kids would have burnt through $8.00 in about 10 minutes of games alone back in Canada.

 The picture above was taken on the tram.

The lights throughout the park were really pretty....

HHHHH - Hanoi to Hoi An

We are getting rather comfortable spending the night on trains so we arrived back in Hanoi from Sapa unscathed and in time for breakfast at our favourite hotel of all time the Calypso.  After breakfast we set off for a quick and painless flight to Hoi An, a relatively small city in central Vietnam close to the infamous China Beach.   Hoi An is a UNESCO world heritage site and is very much a tourist destination.  We enjoyed it (when we were not too sick to do so) but we thought it seemed to lack a bit of the local life that was a big part of Hanoi and Sapa.

The charming city is an ancient trading port that at one point had a very significant Japanese and Chinese presence and you can see both of these influences in the architecture.   Hoi An is loaded with beautifully preserved wooden structures that line a lovely riverfront.  One of the best things about Hoi An (in our humble opinion) is that the riverfront area does not allow vehicles – wow – no horns and in Vietnam!    We had a nice evening strolling through the motor bike free alleyways and marvelling at the architectural delights as well as at all of the well merchandised “stuff” for sale.  The art galleries were awesome as were the crafts and clothing.  The streets were adorned with colourful paper lanterns which added to the pretty picture.  There were also an abundance of  great restaurants.  We even found a place with some of the best deserts so far on the trip.

Unfortunately on day 2 in Hoi An things took a turn for the worse.  Rob was the first to fall ill and Eric followed.   They were both miserable with significant stomach issues.  Fearon and I looked after them as best as we could but there was not much we could do.  We left them to fend for themselves for a little while and strolled through the riverfront area checking out shops and temples along the way.

On day 3 Fearon was down and I soon followed.  We all felt close to death. We did recover but Eric spent his birthday still a little under the weather.  He was, however,  well enough to have some of the cake we managed to pull together.   The women at the hotel were ever so helpful and were delighted to help us celebrate. 

Rob came around and on day 4 he was well enough to meet up with the Australian friends we had originally met in Sapa.  They had a wonderful time together whilst the rest of us continued to roll around in agony at the hotel.  It took a while for us all to recover so our time in Hoi An was not a highlight of our trip.  When we all got back on our feet we did manage to get on some bikes and ride to China Beach and a few other places but we did not enjoy things as we would have had we been 100 percent.  To add insult to injury, the weather was not the best.  It was pretty gloomy and grey which added to our own darkness.

All was not by any means lost in Hoi An…….Hoi An is famous for its tailors and fabrics and when in Hoi An you have to have a lot of resolve to leave with nothing made to fit. With shop keepers approaching you every five seconds it becomes hard to resist.  We decided to bite the bullet and do a little shopping.  Four months and we haven’t really shopped yet.  Rob started things rolling as I was still not feeling up to tackling anything as demanding as making decisions about things like fabrics and styles.  He found a fellow with whom he connected and had quite a lot of fun picking out fabrics and styles for a few things that he would not likely get in Victoria, at a fraction of the price.  I went with him the next day and before I knew it I was on the back of a motorbike being scooted around Hoi An looking for just the right fabric for what I wanted.   It was quite a process but after lots of discussion and a number of fittings we were happy.  The people we worked with were awesome and it was fun to get to know them. We had a number of things made and sent back to Canada.  We just hope they fit when we get there!

We have found it interesting throughout the trip to see how people deal the bombardment of water that they face on a relatively routine basis during the wet season.  Hoi An is subject to frequent flooding and although it was not flooded when we were there it was interesting to find out from shop keepers and restaurant owners how they manage when the water seeps in and fills their establishments.  Apparently they usually know when it is going to happen and they have things set up so that everything on the first floor can easily be moved to higher ground.  All of the wiring and electrical outlets are also placed high enough to ensure electrical things remain problem free.  Although it was not flooding when we were there the river was overflowing its banks and a large section of the road would be underwater for a part of each day.  A little bit of water did not stop the school girls below.

The lady above would not have a lot to move if the waters entered her restaurant.

We left Hoi An and caught the train from nearby Danang to Nha Trang, a beach area further down the coast.  On the way to the train station we stopped at Marble Mountain, a tourist destination well known for its caves, Buddhist sanctuaries and stone carvings.  Had we been well we would have visited Marble Mountain earlier on in our stay in Hoi An.  It was really beautiful and we enjoyed the short time we had there.

Walking in the Clouds in Sapa

Considering that were completely unprepared for cold weather, we were not too sure if we should make the trek north from Hanoi and venture into the chilly Vietnamese mountain highlands.  WOW, were we glad we did.  We left Hanoi on the Orient Express (yes – the original) and headed north towards China to Lao Cai. Although the distance is just over 300 kilometers, it is a 10 hour, overnight trip.  The Orient Express is definitely not a high speed train.  We had a sleeping compartment for the four of us and in spite of the consistent jolts and screeches we did manage to get a bit of rest, if not sleep.  

We arrived in Lao Cai, right on the border of China before dawn and caught a minibus to Sapa, our home base for the upcoming week.  As we approached the town it was starting to get light but instead of exploring right away we decided that rest would take precedent.  We had an early hotel check in and all enjoyed a lengthy nap before tackling the town.

As soon as we stepped out of our hotel we knew that Sapa would be yet another destination unlike anywhere we had been.  The heat we had gotten used to throughout the rest of Asia was replaced with misty mountain air tinged with the smell of wood and coal burning fires. Milling about outside of the hotel were two groups of women and girls, each group dressed distinctly different from the other and in fact different from anyone we had ever seen.  One group, we learned were Black  H’mongs.  They were dressed in beautifully embroidered deep indigos, blues and blacks.  The other group were Red D’zaos.   They had incredible red headdresses and were outfitted in flowing layers of bright fabric which was also beautifully embroidered.  During our stay in the Sapa area these women and many others like them were to become familiar sights, adding significantly to the mystical nature of the area.

“Where you from?  Buy from me?  What your name?”  The women and girls surrounded us and bombarded us with questions from the get go.  Admittedly, we were initially a little put off by their apparent aggressiveness and their desire to stick to us like sticky tape and follow us around from place to place.  It did not, however, take too long for us to realize that they were incredibly friendly and their friendliness was not just based on the possibility of making a sale.   The vividness and character of the minority groups we came in contact with and the interaction that we had with them turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip to not only Sapa but to the whole of Vietnam. 

The many villages that are nestled in the Hoang Lien mountains surrounding Sapa are home to various minority tribes, each with their own distinct language, customs and dress.  The incredible scenic beauty of the area combined with the possibility of getting a glimpse of a tribal life that may quickly disappear is what attracts many visitors to northern Vietnam.  Unfortunately the visitors have not brought prosperity and by the end of our week in Sapa we were left wondering if tourism has been a positive or a negative for the way of life.  The colorful hill tribes are still amongst the poorest population groups in the country.  In the not too distant past these folks relied to a great extent on the opium trade and their own backyards to put food on their tables. The government has, however, cracked down on opium related commerce and has instead encouraged tourism related activities.  The hill tribe women seem to have embraced the tourist trade with gusto, pedalling their handicrafts at every opportunity but has it meant prosperity?  Certainly not from what we saw.

Sapa is captivating in so many ways it is difficult to know where to begin.  In the absence of the hill tribes and other Vietnamese people, one could easily mistake the place for a town in the French Alps.  The cobblestone alleyways and staircases that twist and turn throughout the town as well as the architecture of the beautiful buildings are clear evidence that there was once a major European presence.  The town was founded as a French hill station in the 1920’s and although much of it was destroyed in various wars the French influence is still very evident. 

As we strolled around during our first few hours we were literally embraced within the folds of a thick cloud which made visibility difficult.  Within a relatively short amount of time, however, the sun started to peak through and the cloud seemed to move on.  The beauty that revealed itself was completely breathtaking.  It didn't take long to get the feeling that this place must be one of the most amazing spots on the globe.  The week that we spent there only reinforced that this must be true. 

The natural landscape is incredible.  The town itself is surrounded by towering mountains with terraced rice crops cascading into green valleys with meandering rivers and waterfalls around every turn.  Water buffaloes, pot bellied pigs, horses, chickens and ducks wander freely throughout the nearby villages.  Add to this the beauty of the people and you have a scene that is straight out of National Geographic.  It is hard to believe that places and people like this still exist.  

Throughout the trip Rob and I have enjoyed being able to throw on our runners and cover a fair amount of ground before the kids are really ready to start their days.  We were never more grateful for being able to do this then when we were in Sapa. There is something about being up before the masses and experiencing the stillness of the morning that makes nearly anywhere seem sublime.  In Sapa we ran up and down mountain passes, through rice fields, past villagers carrying half their world on their backs, through poverty stricken places as well as pristinely kept parks.  On the few days that we ran in the afternoon we were joined by cute as a button kids eager to keep pace with the crazy Canucks.  As we ran and witnessed just how difficult life is for people in this area it struck us as incredibly surreal that we run for fun and to keep fit.  Hill tribe life is such a struggle that the people here could likely never imagine having such a placid life that schools need to implement mandatory minimum physical activity requirements!  The pictures below are from some of our runs.

The second day that we were in Sapa we met up with a wonderful couple whom we had gotten to know in Halong Bay.  They were on their way to tour a neighboring village and they invited us along.  We accepted in a flash and we enjoyed a wonderful trek with them through Tai Pin Village, a village predominantly populated by Red Dao people.  When we arrived in the village it was like celebrities had shown up.  Stepping out of the van, there were at least 20 women surrounding us and bombarding us with the already familiar questions, "what your name, how many babies you have?" Etc.  A few of the women and children joined us for our walk and it was a real pleasure chatting with them and watching the kids play as we strolled along. 

We were amazed at how the children care for the children.  We frequently saw little ones with even littler ones strapped to their backs and just going about their day.  Above she is playing a game like marbles.

In the picture above they are showing us rice drying.

 Our entourage!

A few days later we went to a different neighboring village with a local H’mong woman, Winchester, as our guide.  Friends of ours were in Sapa a few years ago and had become close to a girl who was from the woman’s village. We wanted to try to find the girl and bring her good wishes from Skye and Renato.   Although we did our best to find someone who knew her, we did not have any luck.  It was a rainy day and the mud soaked pathways likely kept many villagers off the trails.  In spite of the rain we enjoyed our time with Winchester but we were glad to be able to go back to a warm and dry hotel room and scrub the mud off ourselves.   We could not help but think of the poor conditions the people in the villages contend with.  They have no luxuries like hot showers and heated rooms.  The apparent poverty and absence of basic infrastructure is difficult to see.  The people live in simple huts that lack bare essentials such as clean running water, bathrooms and sewer systems.   Luxuries such as stoves are non existent.  Food is cooked and huts are heated via  open pits.  Rice crops are planted and harvested with the help of hand plows and water buffaloes and little else.  Cloth is dyed using local plants, soil and rocks.  Life is very difficult for these people and it is not surprising that they age before their time.  

The pictures above and below are of two boys who were not likely older than Eric (12).  They were carrying their load first on motorcycles up a mud slick lane. They jumped off their motorbikes and proceeded to carry the load up the mountain - feed for the water buffaloes.....and our boys complain about school!

Notice the motor bike in the house. They wheel them right in and there they sit.

As we have mentioned before, everywhere we have gone we have met wonderful people.  In Sapa we met a terrific Australian family who we ended up spending quite a bit of time with.   On the day we were leaving I travelled with them to Bac Ha village market, about a 3 hour drive away.  After having spent every hour of every day for nearly 4 months within a few feet of Rob and the kids, it was a little strange to be without them for the day. They just didn’t want to spend so much time on the road and then turn around and get into the train for ten hours.  Boy, did they miss out!

We left Sapa in the fog but we soon climbed out of the clouds and throughout the drive we were able to take in the amazing vistas that make the area famous.  About 2 hours into the trip the guide points out that we are passing a wedding and he asked us if we would like to stop and visit.  We looked at each other and noted that we would never just stop into a wedding in Australia or North America. The guide, however, convinced us that it would be a cool thing to do and that we would be welcomed.  The van stopped on the side of the road and we piled out and entered this road side canopy where the wedding was taking place.  

The bride and groom gave us a big welcome and soon we were surrounded by people shoving food and drink at us.  We all had to have shots of “Happy Water”, home made moonshine of some kind that they brew up especially for weddings.  Many folks were having lots of happy water and getting very happy even though it was not yet 11:00 AM.  It was like we were special guests that they had been waiting for forever.  Even though we could not speak a word to anyone we could definitely “feel the love.”  It was an incredible experience with the father and mother of both the bride and groom paying special attention to us.  Here we were, under a canopy on the side of the road with at least a hundred Vietnamese people, none of whom we could talk to, celebrating a marriage.  We ate amazing food and managed to consume enough happy water to keep the hosts happy before having to get on the road to make it to the market.  The bride and groom were handing our cigarettes and betel nuts as gifts to guests as they left.  Travel is so awesome!

The proud Father of the Bride....

Our Australian friend Phil, with yet another shot of Happy Water!

The Bac Ha market was another experience like no other.  We had just had a feast of Vietnamese food and the market turned out to be a Vietnamese feast for our eyes.  Villagers from many surrounding hill tribes walk for hours to make it to this meeting place once a week.  Although there were other tourists there it was definitely not a tourist market but rather a trading and meeting place for locals.  In fact, the villagers here paid little attention to us as they went about their business of buying and selling.  I can’t even begin to describe it so I am not going to try but rather, I’ll let the pictures do the talking!  It was amazing.

As you will be able to see throughout the pictures, the colours at the market were something to behold.  The surrounding area is populated with Flower H'Mongs tribes.  Their clothing and head pieces were works of art and yes, they dress like this daily and make everything themselves, beautiful!

We were not too sure what they were smoking but there was quite a line up for the pipes.

The sugar cane was a popular item.

The people were just so beautiful and they didn't mind having their pictures taken, they got a kick out of seeing them afterwards. The meat section was not so lovely......

There was an active buffalo trading area that was pretty cool to see.

Time has not completely stood still here.....yes, that is a cell phone in her hand.

Taking home food for the month!

On the way back we stopped for a picture at the border of Vietnam and China - China is in the background, so close yet so very different.

We made it back to Sapa just in time for me to gather my things and get ready to leave the mountains and head back to Hanoi.  What a week we had had.  When we boarded the train for the night we were happy to be heading towards warmer climates again but sad to bid farewell to such a spot and to the new friends we had met.  It was one of those places that will be with us forever.